Heres what Christoph has to say about the piece via his site
The Mister Freedom® ROADSTEADER Cap is the latest addition to ourCouvre-ChefDepartment, consisting of a selection of vintage-inspired headwear, revisitedà-laMF®. The line-up already includes our classic Casquette “La Deffe”and”Scuttler” Cap, both regularly issued in an assortment of vintage New Old Stock fabrics. The full released range of these two popular models can be seen at our Los AngelesHQ, and some can be spotted atop Jack Sparrow’s head.
Looking at photos of our new pattern, one will notice that the MF® ROADSTEADER is not a vintage replica, but rather a combo of old-school styles, a mix bag of references to bygone fashions and Costume History, all blending into an irresistible piece of accoutrement for the 21st Century snappy dresser! We drew pointers from the early fashion of theApachesof theBelle Époque, the flamboyant ruffians who had inspired a Mister Freedom®collectionback in 2011. Late 1870’s illustrations of the infamous Parisian gangsters invariably depict their trademark hat, theCasquette Desfoux, aka ‘deffe‘.Originally a black wool or silk cap with a leather visor (casquette à pont),the style was allegedly borrowed from theMaquignons, livestock traders with a reputation for unscrupulous practices. During the 1880’s, bands of Apaches of theVille des Lumièresalso seem to have adopted theMaquignons’ traditional pleated indigo blouse(thebiaudeorblaude,familiar today to thefinesthuntersof antique European textiles),along with the wide-wale corduroy trousers favored by wood-workers and farmers.
It may sound quite ironic that, considering how much these french OGs loathed physical work, rather favoring absinthe, pander and larceny, they opted for vestimentary styles so associated with the working class… Might-this have been an underworld well-thought strategy however, one that would facilitate blending in the crowd when chased by a squadron ofgrippe-coquin (literally “grab-rascal”), akaGendarmes?Another case for Inspector Clouseau. On a side note for the traveller, don’t go around today addressing aGendarmeas “Monsieur grippe-coquin”, things might get out of hand, and holidays cut short.
All these fine threads could conveniently be stolen from boutiques on the crowdedrue Mouffetard(5th arrondissement of Paris), retail destinations such as “Maison Panet”, workwear outfitters and novelty goods purveyors since 1829. On thatsame street, at number 65, stood another fine establishment belonging to a certain Auguste Bénard, local tailor and… ’inventor’ of the original fashion flares! The flared-bottom trousers that he designed in the 1870’s (“pantalon à pattes”or “pattes d’eph” -literally elephant leg- narrow at the knee with bell-shaped leg opening) were a big hit with the Apaches of the early days, as featured on Théophile Steinlen‘s amazing period illustrations. Speaking of inspiring graphics, checkthis vintage sheet music blog.
Today, for an older french generation who has no idea whoPikachuis, the street slang term “bénard” stills designates a pair of pants, and “deffe” a generic casquette.
Besides this colorful Parisian influence, our Roadsteader design obviously borrows from the traditionalGreek fisherman’s cap, and recreational ‘captain’ hat styles, in-turn inspired by military naval covers. This external blog postis a fun illustrated read if you’re into nautical headgear history.
The design process to nail the pattern and construction of our Roadsteader Cap has been quite challenging for our in-house atelier, as attest the many prototypes made. Panels size, seams, stitching, dimensions, leather grade, trims, …, were endlessly tweaked during R&D. Our aim was not to rival with mil-specs hat makers Bancroft Cap Company, or traditional yachting cap specialistLancaster Hat Co, but we still wanted a hat worthy of being featured in the ever-growing Mister Freedom®Sportsmancatalog…
The MF® Roadsteader eventually passed the final exam and survived field-testing. So there it is.
The MF® Roasteader Cap is designed and manufactured in California, USA, by Mister Freedom®.
SPECS: An original MF® pattern, inspired by an assortment of vintage nautical covers and 1900’s french traditional working-class hats. FABRIC: Shell: NOS 2/1 indigo selvedge denim, about 8 Oz. (for reference, similar to the weight of a classic lightweight western denim snap shirt or vintage US Army barrack bag, as opposed to the 12~15 Oz. weight of traditional 3/1 denim 5-pocket jeans.) Lining: Vintage NOS glazed 100% cotton fabric, silkscreen. Leather trims: cowhide headband and visor, with genuine kangaroo hide headband lining.
DETAILS: * Fancy old-school construction. * Unstructured crown. (no plastic frame) * Fully lined with NOS black glazed cotton, featuring original MF® silkscreened label. * Cowhide leather headband. * Unlined cowhide leather visor with indigo HBT tape piping. * Genuine kangaroo hide headband facing, with red/white/blue bow. * Traditional chinstrap was replaced by a riveted strap, featuring concealed denim selvedge ID. * Made in USA.
SIZING: The headband size in measured in centimeters. The headband will not stretch altogether, but the kangaroo lining will soften with wear and ‘loosen-up’ the fit a bit. Size 58 (cm) roughly equates to a 7 ¼ hat size. Size 60 (cm) roughly equates to a 7 ½ hat size. Note that the crown of the Roadsteader is unstructured (no plastic frame) so that it will ‘slouch’ naturally with wear. We recommend cocking it to one side, and a bit to the back, for the old-salt vibe.
CARE: Do not attempt to wash/dry the MF® Roadsteader Cap. Professional spot-cleaning only, if needed. With normal repeat wear, this cap will start to ‘slouch’ and the denim fabric begin to drape naturally. Both the indigo denim twill and leather will acquire a natural patina overtime. We do not recommend trying to artificially hasten the normal aging process. Just wear and enjoy.
Heres what Christoph has to say about the piece via his website
To ease into this new year in style, let’s introduce a new member of the Mister Freedom®Continental Sportcoatfamily, the first Spring 2018 addition to our all-made-in-USASportsmancatalog.
This classic and versatile unstructured blazer pattern is already available in an array of fine NOS fabrics, anindigo crosshatch twill, two greycotton-linen twills, and a light indigo“Player” denim. It now gets an elegant tropical twist with the New Old Stock fabric we recently scored, an 8.85 Oz. blend of 86% cotton and 14% linen, an elegant natural white twill with a subtly-contrasting heather oatmeal warp and white weft. The face of this denim-like fabric displays unbleached slubby flecks of natural fibers, while the reverse shows a whiter cotton yarn. Our (technically inaccurate) choice of term “Congo Gabardine” is a nod to “Congo Cloth”, a now-defunct rayon fabric typical of vintage tropical attire. Off-white suiting fabrics of the the 1920’s-40’s, such as “Congo Cloth”, or the illustrious Palm Beach Cloth(a cotton/mohair blend fabric milled by the Goodall Worsted Company, and cut into classic “Palm Beach” lightweight suits), certainly convey a bygone tropical elegance often eluding contemporary men’s summer fashion.
The Mister Freedom® Continental Sportcoat “Congo” features a half-shoulder ‘floating’ lining cut from yet-another fancy NOS fabric, a white sateen twill with a woven green stripe pattern, probably milled in Italy. Our sportcoat’s classic, sixties-style, four-button closure highlights an attractive set of amber brown corozo buttons, adding somewhat of an ‘earthy’ touch while complimenting the tropical theme. This off-white summer coat can be paired with jeans or khakis for a casual vibe, dressed-up withwaistcoatandslacks, styled with neckties or open collars… or rocked full-on Miami Vice.
The Continental Sportcoat is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in California, USA, by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS: PATERN: An original mfsc pattern, inspired by vintage cotton work coats and other unstructured blazers, notably a 1950’s French postal uniform jacket.
FABRIC: New Old Stock ivory-colored twill, 8.85 Oz., blend of 86% cotton and 14% linen, off-white heather warp with slubby oatmeal flecks x white weft, milled origin unknown. Lining: NOS 100% cotton woven stripe sateen twill, white and green, probable European origin.
DETAILS: * Unstructured silhouette. * Lightweight and soft, perfect traveling companion. * High four-button front closure. * Amber brown corozo wood butons. * Half shoulder floating lining, 100% cotton NOS fancy woven stripe twill. * Form-fitting back, ventless. * Three patch pockets, with flaps on hip pockets. * Concealed ‘passport’ chest pocket. * Pocket openings reinforced on the inside with lining facing. * Tonal 100% cotton stitching, cleancaballoflat-felled seam construction, chainstitch on the inside, no open edges or overlock. * Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT: This explains how we size our garments.
The Continental Sportcoat “Congo” comes raw/unwashed. We recommend our usual initial 30mn cold soak/occasional hand agitation/spin dry/hang dry process. The tagged size reflects the size of the garment after going through this process. The subtle variation of shrinkage between body fabric/lining fabric/cotton thread will result in puckering and roping, slightly altering the fit and drape.
I personally opted for a Size 38 in the Continental sportcoat “Congo”, consistant with all of its other iterations in various fabrics. Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry. Full wash cycle and heat dryer are not recommended.
CARE: Hand wash or machine wash unbuttoned on delicate, cold water with minimal environmentally friendly detergent. Do not use bleach. Line dry. NOTE: Full washing cycle and heat dryer might result in excessive shrinkage and/or damage, to be experimented at owner’s risk.
Available Raw/unwashed SIZES: Small (36) Medium (38) Large (40) X-Large (42) XX-Large (44)
Via Christophs website, here are the details on the new Conductor Jacket
For Spring 2018, the MF® Conductor Jacket gets cut from another mfsc favorite, a vintage New Old Stock hickory stripe lightweight twill that came out of an old warehouse in Southern California. The hickory stripes were a perfect match for their old-school railroad worker-inspired jacket.
Whether worn as a top garment or as a layer under another ¾ length coat, with a classic bowtieà-laBing Crosby’sMusicaladers, with a simpleT-shirtorchambray workshirtà-laChoo-Choo Charlie, the MF® Conductor Jacket is pretty versatile. The numerous pockets make it quite a practical garment when running around town or traveling.
The Conductor Jacket is designed by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in California in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
FABRIC: Vintage 100% cotton New Old Stock lightweight twill, hickory stripe pattern, origin USA.
DETAILS: * An all original mfsc pattern inspired by early American workwear and European tailoring, vintage 1920’s-30’s chore coats and denim engineer jackets. * Four original MF® pocket-shape designs. * Elegant front panel cut-away. * Watch compartment on left chest pocket. * Pockets lined/half-lined with NOS 2×1 indigo denim. * Inside iPhone chest pocket * Black oxidized donut wreath buttons. * Collar chin strap with contrast copper donut button. * Split back panel, displaying selvedge ID. * Selvedge front panel facing, cuffs and watch pocket opening slit. * Side cinch straps, French NOS metal buckles. * Contrasting green chainstitch, bar-tacks and button holes. * Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT: The MF® Conductor Jacket comes UN-WASHED (=raw) and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend our usual method for raw denim garments:
* 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in minimally-filled washing machine or bath tub. * Spin dry cycle (if using a machine). * Hang dry. The garment will stiffen when dry following this initial routine, due to the re-activated fabric starch contained in the cotton yarns. This is normal and the ‘crispiness’ will subside with normal wear.
I opted for a size 38 (Medium), for a relaxed fit. I could fit a size 36 but preferred having the option to layer in colder weather. Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
Wash when necessary. Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Some light indigo blue transfer to the white yarns might occur. This is normal and will subside over time and subsequent wash cycles.
Available RAW/unwashed SIZES: Small (36) Medium (38) Large (40) X-Large (42) XX-Large (44)
This time around, we wanted a dancing partner for theMF® SPEEDWAYS Jeansissued for Fall 2017 in a special “coated denim”. This special NOS fabric isnotthe modern waxy black rubber type coating seen on novelty contemporary jeans, but rather an interesting indigo denim twill printed with a soft-hand opaque coat of matte black water-based ink. If the black ink completely covers the indigo blue warp of the denim, the usual light-colored grayish weft (with somewhat of a greenish sheen) shows on the reverse of the fabric. The slub of the yarns is visible on the weft threads, giving this specific denim its crosshatch quality. If the Cowboy Jacket in BCD initially looks flat black, it will develop its own patina overtime, blending shades of indigo with black and white, according to activities, frequency of wear and wash cycles. Undertones of indigo will rapidly appear with normal wear abrasion. See the denim wash test photos below, also featuring a small section rubbed with sand paper.
We opted for tonal stitching and un-branded oxidized black wreath donut buttons, for a rather unassuming vibe and neutral fashion statement.
The mfsc COWBOY Jacket in Black-Coated Denim is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS: FABRIC: New Old Stock crosshatch coated denim, soft-hand matte black finish on indigo warp, 100% cotton, about 12-13 Oz. Origin unknown (maybe Italy). DETAILS: * Fairly trim silhouette, sixties vibe. * Original MF® slanted flap chest pockets. * Oxydized black wreath donut shank buttons. * MF® tonal “M” stitching on pockets. * Charcoal “salt & pepper” chambray fabric accents on pocket flap facing. * Buttoned cinch-waist side tabs. * Copper rivet for pockets and sleeve placket reinforcements. * Debossed leather MF® original patch. * All cotton thread chainstitch construction, tonal with contrasting red accents on the inside. * Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT The Cowboy Jacket in BCD (Black-Coated Denim) comes UN-WASHED and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. This specific denim is pretty much sanforized, and very minimal shrinkage is to be expected. We suggest you follow the usual initial method we recommend for raw denim garments: * 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in minimally-filled washing machine or bath tub. * Spin dry cycle (if using a machine). * Hang dry. * As an optional step, wear the garment briefly when still not fully dry, in order to slightly shape it to your body and set creases. Hang and let fully dry.
The denim garment will stiffen when dry following this initial routine, due to the re-activated fabric starch contained in the cotton yarns. This is normal and the ‘crispiness’ will subside with normal wear.
As with all the versions of theMF® COWBOY Jacket, I opted tosize downfrom the Medium (38) I usually wear in msfc garments, and went for a snug36(once cold soaked/line dry.) What works is subjective and will depend on what silhouette you are comfortable and familiar with, on your body type and personal style. Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
CARE: Treat the MF® COWBOY Jacket BCD as you would fancy indigo denim wearables. Hand washing can be a good option for those concerned with specific wear patterns and high-contrast colors fades, otherwise machine wash on delicate. Wash separately to avoid color transfer. Turn garment inside-out to minimize unsightly marbling of the fabric. Cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry. Initially black, your Cowboy Jacket BCD will develop its own attractive patina with normal wear, blending shades of indigo, black, and white, according to activities, frequency of wear and wash cycles.
Available RAW/unwashed SIZES: X-Small (34) Small (36) Medium (38) Large (40) X-Large (42)